Dog Fleas

March 23, 2016 by Designerdogsonline

Of all the common insects and parasites that can affect your dog, fleas are among the most annoying. Not only do they cause discomfort to your pet, but if not treated immediately they can spread to the rest of the house and even bite human family members. Both long coat breeds such as Cavoodles and short coat breeds such as Puggles are just as susceptible to these annoying parasites. Listed below is what you need to know about fleas, as well as how to treat and prevent them.

Where do fleas come from?

Fleas are native to wooded areas, such as forest or scrub land, but will happily take up residence in shrubs, bushes, or anywhere they can find crevices to hide out until a potential host comes by. As animals pass by these areas, fleas jump from brush to animal in search of a meal of blood from this host animal. A dog can get fleas from being outside or near another animal that is already infested, as well as from birds or rodents that visit the backyard unbeknownst to everyone who lives there.

What are the symptoms of fleas?

Initial symptoms of fleas include excessive scratching and shaking, especially at the base of tail or on the head, where most blood is concentrated. To check for fleas, pull back your dog’s fur to look at the skin. Fleas will look like moving black or brown thin bugs, and in a particularly bad infestation may reveal literally hundreds of fleas on a dog. “Flea dirt,” which looks like specks of black soil in the dog’s coat is usually what gives the presence of fleas away. It is the flea ‘poo’. If you are not sure if what you are seeing is dirt or flea dirt, take some of the grains and place them on a wet paper towel. The dirt will stay black while the flea dirt will go red when smudged into the paper towel.

How should fleas be treated?

A flea infestation should be treated as soon as possible. The first step is to treat the dog by administering a flea bath or spray. These products contain insecticides that kill adult and juvenile fleas, or render them unable to reproduce. Next, the entire house must be treated, as well. Once the flea is finished sucking your dog’s blood, it will find a place to lay its eggs, such as upholstery or carpet. It is important to kill any remaining fleas in the house, or else the flea cycle will continue. Products are available at pet stores to help with this process. In extreme cases, an exterminator may have to be called. Additionally, it is recommended to treat your house and dog multiple times to ensure all remaining fleas are killed.

What diseases do they spread?

Besides causing allergic reactions in many dogs, fleas can also contribute to the spread of disease. If a dog uses his mouth to bite and scratch at fleas and accidentally ingests the insect, he is at risk for developing a tapeworm infection. Tapeworms live inside an animal’s digestive tract and steal vital nutrients from the animal’s diet. Extreme infections of tapeworm lead to weight loss and anemia.

How can fleas be prevented?

Fortunately, fleas are entirely preventable. A number of products exist that are designed to be regularly administered to dogs. One option is a topical gel or liquid, applied monthly, that contains an insecticide that is metabolized by the dog’s skin. When a flea bites a treated dog it ingests the insecticide and is killed on contact. Some of the brands of these topical preventative treatments include brands such as Frontline and Revolution. Other popular options include monthly oral tablets or topical sprays. Additionally, some products are multifunctional and combine heartworm, flea, tick, and worm protection. Overall, fleas are one of the easiest problems to prevent, and a small investment for monthly protection more than outweighs the cost of treatment.

Teaching your dog to stay

March 18, 2016 by Designerdogsonline

How to teach your dog to “stay”

After your dog has mastered sit and lie down, he can begin to learn stay. Just as with “come,” “stay” is a command that can help keep your dog safe, and is especially important for people without fenced in yards, or apartment dwellers that need to make sure their pup doesn’t run outside every time the door is opened.

Steps to follow

To begin, first put your dog in a “sit” or “down” position. Say “stay” and hold your hand up as you take two or three steps backward. Then, put your hand down and say “free” and encourage your dog to come to you. As soon as your dog leaves the sitting or down position, issue a reward and positive reinforcement. If your dog moves before you tell him he is “free,” say “no” and start the process over. In the beginning you may find it necessary to shorten the amount of time you are asking him to stay, as some dogs have shorter attention spans than others. Over time you will be able to lengthen the duration of the command, but remember to always release him by saying “free” (or something similar like “ok”) or else your dog may become confused and think he can break the stay without being told to do so. Once your dog can stay for 10 – 15 seconds, begin practicing the command with a greater distance between you and your dog.

Some things to keep in mind

Stay can be a difficult command for dogs to learn, because they naturally want to be near their owners (and, after all, you have probably already taught him the benefits of coming when called!) If your Beaglier continues to break the command, calmly tell him “no” each time. Feedback is important, and will help your dog learn that moving without being told do so is inappropriate. Also avoid placing a treat in the hand being used to signal “stay.” Seeing the treat will further entice the dog to run towards you. As with all important commands, practice and positive reinforcement is crucial. Treat your dog as if he just found a million bucks the first time he nails “stay,” and you will find that subsequent practice sessions will be easier.

Also, keep in mind that the younger the puppy, the more time you may need to spend in teaching her a new command. Younger puppies also have shorter attention spans so keep the training sessions shorter than you think they can handle.

Dog worms

March 17, 2016 by Designerdogsonline

There are many factors that go into properly caring for a dog. Besides providing food, shelter, and love, owners should also provide routine veterinary care, vaccines, and necessary parasite preventatives. Worming your puppy is important, yet is all too often overlooked by well-meaning pet parents. It is easy to forget and often, most owners don’t really think about them unless they see their Moodle rubbing his bum on the floor.

What are worms?

Worms are intestinal parasites such as roundworm, hookworm, tapeworm, and whipworms that use a dog’s (or other host animal’s) intestinal tract as a place to live. The worms take nutrients from your dog’s food in order to survive, leaving your pet weakened and suffering from poor nutrition. Heartworms live in your dog’s circulatory system (the bloodstream) with the adults residing in the heart of affected dogs.

Roundworms

Dog roundworms (Toxocara canis) are the most common worm parasite of dogs and almost all dogs will have them at some stage in their life. They are picked up in a number of ways and can be passed on to people when basic hygiene such as hand washing is not followed after being exposed to infected dogs or their stool. They look like little lengths of noodles in the feces of puppies but are usually not seen until the puppy is given a worming tablet or syrup and the worm passed is usually a dead one.

Heartworms

Thankfully, heartworms are less common in Australia than most other dog parasites but they can cause the most damage to an infected dog. Dog heartworms cannot be transmitted to people which is a good thing, considering that they are spread by mosquitos and they are almost 100% preventable in dogs with modern treatments. Heartworm preventatives need to be given from about 4-5 months of age. If you wait until after your puppy is 6 months old to start heartworm treatment, your vet may need to perform a blood test first.

Where do worms come from?

Dogs can contract worms in a number of ways. Heartworm is transmitted to dogs through mosquitoes, while a dog may get roundworms from eating soil or stool from other animals, including rodents. Hookworms can infect dogs in a similar manner as roundworm, but can also work their way through an animal’s skin and into its blood stream. Whipworms come from consuming infected food or water, and tapeworms are the result of ingesting fleas.

What are the symptoms of a dog with worms?

A dog that has been infected with intestinal worms will show any number of symptoms depending on the species and severity of worm infestation including coughing, “scooting”, diarrhea, vomiting, sudden weight loss, distended stomach, anemia, pale gums, or even death in long term and severely infested dogs.

How are worms treated?

Depending on the type of infection and severity, worms can be treated in a variety of manners. Most often, for infections such as roundworm, whipworm, hookworm, or tapeworm, a common dewormer such as Drontal puppy suspension is administered. This treatment kills worms in the digestive tract, and typically multiple treatments at regular intervals are required. Just remember to weigh your dog as a Standard Groodle will weigh more and need a larger dose than a small breed such as a Moodle. For severe cases such as heartworm infection, antibiotics, steroids, and even surgery may be necessary. It is far better to administer a preventative than to try to treat heartworm infestation.

How are worms prevented?

Regular deworming is an important preventative measure that kills any existing parasites in a dog’s intestinal tract before they can grow and cause harm to the pet. Puppies, who are most at-risk from worm infestation, should be administered a deworming tablet or gel at 2, 4, 6, 8, 12, and 16 weeks of age, and then again every 3 months. Beyond one year of age, dogs should be dewormed about once every three months. For heartworm prevention, dogs should be administered a separate preventative, typically in the form of a monthly oral tablet, but once per year injections are now available from your veterinarian. Usually this is given at the same time as your dog’s annual vaccination.

Teach your dog to lie down

March 11, 2016 by Designerdogsonline

How to teach your dog to lie down

Once a dog has mastered sit, he can begin learning how to lie down on command. Not only is lying down a neat trick that makes your dog look well behaved, but it can also be useful for calming excited dogs or as an antidote to jumping.

Steps to teach your dog to lie down

There are a number of methods for teaching your dog this trick, and you should practice each to determine which works best for your pup. As with “sit,” you will begin by first teaching your dog the motion, and then adding the verbal command. First ask your Groodle to sit, and then place a treated hand in front of your dog’s nose. Slowly move your hand both backwards (towards your body), and down towards the floor, drawing your dog’s nose to the ground. For most dogs, their bodies will follow their nose, and by the time your hand reaches the floor he will be lying down. Say “yes!” and administer a treat the moment he reaches the correct position.

Other ways to teach “lie down”

If your dog is tempted to walk towards the treat instead of lie down, a second option is to again start with a treated hand in front of the dog’s nose, but instead of moving your hand backwards, move your hand both toward the dog and down, ending near his front feet. His nose will follow the treat, and lack of space will force him to assume a lying down position.

Two alternative ways, should the first two methods not work, are to start with the lure at the dog’s nose, and slowly draw your hand close to the dog’s body, finishing down at his tail. This manner forces the dog to reposition himself to get the treat, and typically the most natural position is lying down. A final way is to get your dog’s attention and quickly “snap” the treat onto the ground, causing your dog to follow suit for the treat. Find the method (or variation) which works best for your dog and repeat this action until he reliably lies down with the lure.

How to use the command

Once your dog is ready, incorporate the use of a verbal command. While it is tempting to say “lie down,” dogs do best with one syllable commands, such as “down.” Just as with “sit,” issue the “down” command and then lure your dog into the proper position. Immediately reward your dog with plenty of positive reinforcement the moment he lies down. After this command has been mastered from the sitting position, begin to ask for the down when your dog is standing.

Never become frustrated with your dog if teaching the down command is difficult. If you find yourself becoming upset, take a break from training and come back to it with a clear head. Do not force your dog into the proper position, as he will not learn the command in this way. As always, timing the reward is a crucial component. Do not reward too soon, before the dog is in the fully lying down position, or too late.

If you simply cannot find a reliable luring method, a more time-consuming technique is to enthusiastically say “down” and reward your dog every time you see him lying down. Although a slow process, your dog will eventually learn the association between the word, action, and reward.

How to teach your dog to Sit

March 25, 2025February 3, 2016 by Designerdogsonline

Are you interested in training your Cavoodle but unable to go to an obedience class? No problem! A number of basic commands are easy to teach with a little bit of patience and proper technique. The first and simplest command for a dog to learn is how to sit. This trick is an important stepping stone for learning other commands such as “lie down” and “stay.” Knowing how to sit will come in handy while at the vet, at grooming appointments, and when strangers approach who want to pet your dog.

To begin, move your dog to a quiet area free of distractions, such as a spare bedroom. Do not try and teach your dog any new command in a busy area or one that may be difficult to hold his attention, such as in the yard or kitchen. Also have a lot of high-value treats handy, ones that your dog will work vigilantly to receive. If the treats are large, be sure to break them into tiny bits, or use individual pieces of dry kibble.

The first step is to get your dog used to performing the action, without any command given. While holding a treat, place your hand approximately six inches above your dog’s head and move your hand straight out, away from your body, towards your dog’s tail. His eyes should follow your hand, which will naturally cause him to sit. The moment your dog’s butt hits the ground, immediately give an enthusiastic “Yes!” and give him the treat. You may have to tweak exactly what you do with your hand for each individual dog, but keep in mind that as a dog’s gaze moves backwards, he will inherently be forced to sit down. If your dog walks backwards instead, try holding your hand higher above his head, and move the treat up in the air while also moving it back towards his tail. Repeat this process until your dog reliably sits in response to this treat stimulus.

When your dog is ready, you can add in the verbal command “sit.” Before gesturing for the action, say “sit” and then immediately lure him into a sitting position with a treat. Over time, your dog will learn that you saying “sit” will lead to the lure, which will lead to him being given a treat.

When teaching your dog to sit, there are a few actions not to do. Never force your dog’s rear end to the ground, as this does not teach him the proper action, and can even lead to him expecting to only sit when forced. Also avoid continuing to repeat “sit” if he is not performing the proper action. Continually saying the command with no response can desensitize your dog and essentially makes the word “white noise.” Instead, take a step back from the situation and evaluate what you can do differently to engage him to the proper behavior.

As with all forms of dog training, timing is important. Never give the treat too early, or too late. Try to ensure you are always rewarding the instant your dog’s rear end hits the ground. Keep in mind that your dog’s attention span is short, so to avoid frustration for both you and your dog, always keep training sessions short and positive. The first time your dog gets a command right, give a lot of praise and extra treats. This reaction will keep him engaged, and will also teach him that when he listens to you, he will be rewarded.

Puppy ear cleaning

December 8, 2015 by Designerdogsonline

Puppy ear cleaning time For most new dog owner’s, cleaning the ears of the most recent addition to the family has most likely not even crossed their minds. However, cleaning a dog’s ears is one of the most important things you can do to prevent a whole range of health problems from taking root. A dog’s ears are the perfect breeding ground for lots of little nasties such as yeast and bacteria which, if left to their own devices, will eventually breed to infectious levels. Taking a little time each week to keep your dog’s ears clean and clear will help ensure a healthy happy animal.
The trick to cleaning a dog’s ears for the first time is to build them up to it. Get your dog accustomed to having their ears handled by touching and handling them while you’re petting him. Every now and then lift up an ear flap and have a look inside. When you let it down give the dog lots of praise. It also helps to rub the inside of the ears without going in any further than the areas that are visible. Also pay some attention to around the base of the ears.
What you are effectively doing is getting your dog accustomed to having his ears handled so he knows he has nothing to be afraid of when you go in for a proper clean. Dirty ears on a dog can be cleaned with any quality commercial dog ear wash. Load up the ears with a decent amount of wash and then give the base of the ears a thorough but gentle massage for about thirty seconds.
When done stand back and let your dog shake his head. Your dog will be enthusiastic about clearing his ears so make sure you do this in an area where you don’t mind a mess. Once your dog has finished shaking you will need to go in with a cotton ball or tissue to sop up the excess cleaner. Never go in further than what you can see, and never use a cotton-tip inside your dog’s ear as it’s easy to push in too far and damage the ear drum.
It’s important to have a regular cleaning regime for dogs that have long floppy ears, such as Beagliers and Puggles. You should also clean regularly if your dog spends a lot of time in the water. Otherwise, cleaning once a month should be plenty for breeds with upright ears if they are obviously healthy and are not showing any signs of distress in that area. When in doubt check with your vet about any breed specific ear care requirements.

Puppy Vaccinations

November 10, 2015 by Designerdogsonline

Vaccinations needed by a puppy

Beagle Mum with puppy Newborn puppies start receiving disease fighting antibodies straight from mother’s milk as soon as they are born but the advantage this provides to their immune system dissipates after the first few weeks. To help protect your puppy long after they have left their mother, vaccinations are needed. Puppy vaccinations are essentially modified strains of diseases used to stimulate the puppy’s immune system into producing its own antibodies.

While there is some controversy over vaccinations and their benefits versus risks, the practice is backed by years of scientific research which most experts agree with. You will also find it difficult to enter your pet into kennels if you cannot provide proof of vaccinations. This can make it more challenging to find care for your pet should you go on holiday or require emergency accommodation.

Every dog from Beagliers to Groodles should receive a round of core vaccinations to prevent the spread of a range of common and widespread life threatening illnesses. These core vaccinations include vaccination against Canine Distemper, Hepatitis and Parvovirus. Vaccination against 2 organisms that cause kennel cough will also be administered after 10 weeks of age. In some areas it may also be required to administer other non-core vaccines such as for rabies in many parts of the world. Your vet will be able to advise you on whether these or any other vaccinations are required in the area you live in.

Puppy vaccinations start early on in your puppy’s life as the first round is usually administered at 6 to 8 weeks of age. At this age the vaccinations are temporary in order to get the animal safely through this period of its life. Once the pup reaches 10 – 12 weeks they receive booster a shot to further stimulate their immune system, and then at 14 – 16 weeks they receive their final vaccination to usher them safely into their adult life. Booster shots are then required at 12 month or 24 month intervals for the remainder of a dog’s life, with many vets now recommending a slightly less stringent program of once every 3 years.

Your puppy’s first visit to the vet will involve a discussion about the schedule of vaccinations and what each vaccination protects against. The vet will also perform a general examination to determine the overall health of the animal. While some animals will feel a pinch, or a little sting during the vaccination there is no cause for alarm as it is over and forgotten about in an instant.

The vaccine will not give your puppy instant immunity as this won’t occur until after 5 or 10 days. As there is no definitive way to determine if your puppy still has maternal antibodies from his mother’s milk booster shots are required to ensure a vaccines effectiveness. Full immunity is not certain until about 4 months of age after all booster shots have been administered, so you should delay visits to dog parks, or anywhere else where he could be exposed to contagious diseases during this time.

Vaccines do come with risks, however small, and the vast majority of experts say the benefits far outweigh the risks. A small number of animals may develop side effects such as pain and swelling at the injection site, lethargy, or fever. In an even smaller number of cases there may be allergic reactions. See your vet if you notice hives, difficulty breathing, or facial swelling, as allergic reactions must not be ignored.

How to toilet train your puppy

November 9, 2015November 9, 2015 by Designerdogsonline

Puppy Potty Training

Beagle Toilet New puppies are going to leave little accidents around the place. It is inevitable and all part of the learning process so it’s important not to be too harsh on the little guy as he may not have yet gained full control of his bladder and bowel movements. Prepare yourself beforehand and keep the proper cleaning equipment within reach so when accidents do happen they cause minimal disruption and mess.

While they are eating, the puppy’s intestinal tract is being stimulated, so once they are done with their bowl part of their toilet training can take part in a specially designated area of the yard straight after meal time. Every puppy is different so there is no guarantee that they will poop immediately after eating; it could take 5, 10, or even 30 minutes so patience is key. Training your puppy to go in the same area of the yard each time also reduces the burden of cleaning up afterwards, as you don’t have to scour the yard on a daily basis looking for doggy presents.

Puppies learn quite quickly but at this early stage of their life they go toilet quite regularly with smaller breeds such as Moodles going more often than larger breeds like Groodles. During this young stage a puppy will tend to go whenever and wherever they happen to be; which can be up to every 30 – 45 minutes. Your due diligence is required so you are on hand to notice and can show the puppy the correct place for them to eliminate. It can take a couple of weeks for a puppy to “get the hint” but even so expect a number of accidents during the first 6 months before the training really takes hold.

A puppy’s feeding schedule is an important part of their training. Regular meal times are a must as what goes in will eventually come out in a somewhat predictable time frame. Do not leave food out for your pup to feed on whenever they feel like it. Firstly, this will create a random toilet time that you will have no way of figuring out. And secondly, your pup needs to get to know you as the provider of food; which is an important part of designating you as pack leader.

Set up your household to facilitate house training. Have cleaning products on hand which can remove urine and faecal stains – and make sure you have plenty of paper towels on standby as well. Confinement is the key to gaining greater control over their toilet training. A crate that can sit next to your bed and an exercise pen near where you spend the majority of your time are excellent measures so you can notice accidents immediately. A small treat kept close to the toilet area is also another great tool for training, but make sure this treat is especially reserved for house training.

Start a regular routine of taking your puppy to the designated toilet area. Immediately on waking, after they have finished eating or having a large drink, and after a bout of vigorous play. Do this every 45 minutes, and when they do manage to go correctly, get excited about it and reward the clever little thing. If they whine while in the crate by your bed, or while in the exercise pen immediately take them out to do their business. This routine should be adhered to for at least 3 months or until your puppy understands where the toilet is.

If a puppy is peeing in the wrong spot it’s safe to startle them a little (but not scare them), and pick them up to take them to the correct spot. However, let them finish a poo as they may not be able to stop it and you’ll have a large mess on your hands – and probably all over them as well!

Happy puppy outside Housetraining a young puppy takes persistence, consistency, and patience. Never yell or hit a puppy who has had an accident as this will only be detrimental to your training efforts, and the mental health of your new little friend. Over time you will notice fewer and fewer accidents as your puppy learns the art of self-control over their bowel movements.